Milna and Stari Grad, Croatia

By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Cruising the Dalmatian Islands
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There are hundreds of small islands between Split and Dubrovnik and we are going to stop in as many as we can.  After an evening in a remote anchorage, we stopped off in Milna to get fuel.  Just a short stop, but a very cute town.  We then “sailed” (while the gulet has Genoa sails, they rarely ever use them since people would rather get to where they are going quickly) to another remote cove on the island of Hvar.  There we got in a bit of swimming/snorkeling in the beautiful, if somewhat chilly, waters there.  I was looking for lobsters, but got sea cucumbers!  In the late afternoon, we took the Zodiac on a 20-30 minute speed run into the town of Stari Grad, the oldest town in Croatia – founded by the Ptolemy’s (Egyptian Pharoahs) around 400 BC.  The waves were pretty big and we got a bit soaked on the way in.  Having said that, it was a charming, well-preserved town.  We wandered around the back streets and alleys and drank some of the local wine (a yummy rose).  We then went to dinner at a small restaurant in the hills, where they cooked our lamb, veal, and octopus “under the bell.”  In essence, they put the food in metal pots, put them in a bed of coals and then cover the pot with a metal dome, covered with coals.  The food was great – the owner’s homemade wine was not so good…  The highlight of the evening is when we ran out of gas in the Zodiac on the way back to the boat.  It was pitch dark and we were drifting toward a ferry.  Luckily, the captain called a friend and he came and towed us back.  Adventure!

Getting off the boat in Milna -- one of the few times we pulled up sideways to a pier.
Getting off the boat in Milna — one of the few times we pulled up sideways to a pier.
Milna was a cute little town, but we were only there for a short stop.
Milna was a cute little town, but we were only there for a short stop.
We anchored in an inlet about a mile from Stalni Grad. Time for a quick swim! No lobsters, but lots of sea cucumbers.
We anchored in an inlet about a mile from Stalni Grad. Time for a quick swim! No lobsters, but lots of sea cucumbers.
Walking into Stalni Grad. Glen is on the left with the soaked shirt and wet butt from the Zodiac ride -- a condition we endured for much of the week!
Walking into Stalni Grad. Glen is on the left with the soaked shirt and wet butt from the Zodiac ride — a condition we endured for much of the week!
The Stalni Grad waterfront. As with everywhere else in Croatia, it was clean and quiet.
The Stalni Grad waterfront. As with everywhere else in Croatia, it was clean and quiet.
Two of the great philosophers -- one dead, one not so much!
Two of the great philosophers — one dead, one not so much!
A lovely church down one of the back streets.
A lovely church down one of the back streets.
Oh, and speaking of back streets, there was nobody on them -- I mean nobody! I felt a bit like the inspector in the original Wicker Man movie!
Oh, and speaking of back streets, there was nobody on them — I mean nobody! I felt a bit like the inspector in the original Wicker Man movie!
Lots of gardens and pomegranate trees. Alright, admit it -- how many of you have actually seen a pomegranate tree? No, I hadn't either!
Lots of gardens and pomegranate trees. Alright, admit it — how many of you have actually seen a pomegranate tree? No, I hadn’t either!
Also lots of cellar doors -- also strangely unattended.
Also lots of cellar doors — also strangely unattended.
Weird store selling that looked like a Wiccan supply outlet...
Weird store that looked like a Wiccan supply outlet…
... with this staring down at you. Weird, but fun!
… with this staring down at you. Weird, but fun!
Lots of weeds and amulets hanging from the windows. More Wicker Man vibe!
Lots of weeds and amulets hanging from the windows. More Wicker Man vibe!
After strolling around for a while, we started picking up signs of life.
After strolling around for a while, we started picking up signs of life.
We happened upon a great cafe with a fun server named Ke Ke who served us some great rosé and a whole lot of jokes!
We happened upon a great cafe with a fun server named Ke Ke who served us some great rosé and a whole lot of jokes!
A good time was had by all!
A good time was had by all!
That night we went to a restaurant where they cooked our lamb, veal, an octopus "under the bell," with coals on the top and bottom.
That night we went to a restaurant where they cooked our lamb, veal, an octopus “under the bell,” with coals on the top and bottom.
Here is one example of the outcome -- the octopus. So good!
Here is one example of the outcome — the octopus. So good!
A little musical accompaniment for the evening. Deb was definitely eyeing that accordion all night!
A little musical accompaniment for the evening. Deb was definitely eyeing that accordion all night!

Anyway, today we are sailing to Hvar Town – a notorious party town (apparently, a favorite of Beyoncé).  We will hobnob with the glitterati!

This entry was posted in Croatia, Cruising, Travel
Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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