Middle Rhine and Marksburg Castle, Germany

By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Viking Grand European Tour
Show More Posts

After Wertheim, we cruised up the Middle Rhine, admiring all the beautiful old castles and vineyards that line the hills overlooking the river. This whole area is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the various castles, palaces, and fortresses that grace this valley. You can see nearly all periods of architecture here – Carolingian, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and New Gothic. These structures reflect the wealth and power of the time and, as often happens, the destructive forces that can be delivered by war or by nature. Cruising through this valley is inspiring – you see the centuries of life created, destroyed, and modified. It is bittersweet. We ultimately landed in Koblenz, the point where the Moselle flows into the Rhine. It is known as the “German Corner,” although for the life of me I don’t know why. From here, we went to visit the Marksburg Castle – the only castle to survive intact from the various invasions that took place in the Rhine Valley. Marksburg Castle emerged to oversee the significant silver and lead mining interests that originated back into the Roman period. The castle is ideally positioned on the peak of a hilltop, overlooking the Rhine and Dachsenhauser Valley. It dates back to the 12th century and was never successfully breached in the many battles that it withstood. It ultimately became the property of the Association for the Preservation of German Castles. It is probably the best example of what life truly was like in the medieval period. On to Cologne!

It seems like there were castles on every turn on the river.
It seems like there were castles on every turn on the river.
All different ages...
All different ages…
... and styles...
… and styles…
... generally collocated with a town/village.
… generally collocated with a town/village.
Most of the castles were at least partly destroyed by the various invaders/conquerors that passed through here. Some have been lovingly restored and turned into hotels -- like this one!
Most of the castles were at least partly destroyed by the various invaders/conquerors that passed through here. Some have been lovingly restored and turned into hotels — like this one!
This castle also performed the toll collection that was so critical to the economy in the area.
This castle also performed the toll collection that was so critical to the economy in the area.
Another hotel/vineyard conversion.
Another hotel/vineyard conversion.
There are some very large castles up there!
There are some very large castles up there!
Even the train tunnels look like castles!
Even the train tunnels look like castles!
This is Lorelei Rock. It is at the edge of the narrowest point on the Rhine. There are different legends about Lorelei that involve some combination of elves, a scorned maiden, long flowing hair, bewitched sailors, and lots of crashing on the rocks. Having said that, it is easy to see how you could end up on the rocks, trying to make the sharp turn in the river.
This is Lorelei Rock. It is at the edge of the narrowest point on the Rhine. There are different legends about Lorelei that involve some combination of elves, a scorned maiden, long flowing hair, bewitched sailors, and lots of crashing on the rocks. Having said that, it is easy to see how you could end up on the rocks, trying to make the sharp turn in the river.
Yet more castles!
Yet more castles!
This is Marksburg Castle, the only hill castle on the Rhine that was never destroyed. Originally started in the 12th century, the castle continued to grow over the centuries.
This is Marksburg Castle, the only hill castle on the Rhine that was never destroyed. Originally started in the 12th century, the castle continued to grow over the centuries.
In the Middle Ages, better weapons and an increased threat meant that they had to seriously improve the defenses of the castle. There are actually three gates you have to get through in order to access the castle.
In the Middle Ages, better weapons and an increased threat meant that they had to seriously improve the defenses of the castle. There are actually three gates you have to get through in order to access the castle.
I'm sure these probably discouraged a siege or two!
I’m sure these probably discouraged a siege or two!
The castle has very high walls...
The castle has very high walls…
... and commanding views of the river and all approaches to it.
… and commanding views of the river and all approaches to it.
The owners of this castle also owned all the rights to the silver and lead mining in the area. Very lucrative for many generations, but also heavily polluting. The finally stopped mining in the area (I believe in the late 90s).
The owners of this castle also owned all the rights to the silver and lead mining in the area. Very lucrative for many generations, but also heavily polluting. The finally stopped mining in the area (I believe in the late 90s).
The interior of the castle, while mostly filled with reproductions, gives a real sense of what life in the castle may have been like.
The interior of the castle, while mostly filled with reproductions, gives a real sense of what life in the castle may have been like.
Very thick walls and therefore well insulated.
Very thick walls and therefore well insulated.
Really short beds. People in those days suffered lots of lung-related ailments and the belief was that sleeping laying down would contribute to that. Hence, thesy slept sitting up!
Really short beds. People in those days suffered lots of lung-related ailments and the belief was that sleeping laying down would contribute to that. Hence, thesy slept sitting up!
An impressive collection of armor.
An impressive collection of armor.

 

This entry was posted in Cruising, Europe, Germany, Travel
Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

Related Posts