Kinderdijk and Rotterdam, Netherlands

By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Viking Grand European Tour
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After Cologne, we headed into the Netherlands for a stop at Kinderdijk, a small village and UNESCO World Heritage Site that contains 19 authentic, working windmills of three varying designs.  These windmills are part of an elaborate system to keep the ever-rising seawater from flooding the land.  This area drained naturally until the 13th century, when the combination of settling land and surplus water said that something needed to be done.  Water Boards were created that were tasked with managing the dykes that were being built, but ultimately the mills were needed to pump water between a series of storage basins (boezem) to maintain a balance.  Ultimately technology entered the picture and steam and electric pumps began to pick up more of the workload, but the mills were retained as a monument to the ingenuity displayed by earlier generations.

Amazingly, today these windmills still have “Millers” that live in the mills with their families, operate them, and maintain them.  As I understand it, there is no pay for the Millers and, in fact, they have to get certified before they can operate one, which can take several years.  Having said that, what a great place to live!

After leaving Kinderdijk, we headed to Rotterdam to spend our last night in preparation of disembarkation.  After the brutal heat of the previous two weeks, the temperature cooled and the skies opened up.  To celebrate the evening, we enjoyed the caviar we had purchased in Budapest (it was great — we should have bought more!) along with all the accoutrement and, of course, champagne.  All-in-all, we thoroughly enjoyed our 15-day sojourn.  We had never done a river cruise, but will certainly do one again!

A view of the windmills from the spit of land between the storage ponds
A view of the windmills from the spit of land between the boezem
The miller turns the wind shaft which turns the entire upper section (known as the winding) into the wind. It was remarkably easy to turn. Probably a good thing when the wind frequently shifts and you are the only one around!
The miller turns the wind shaft which turns the entire upper section (known as the winding) into the wind. It was remarkably easy to turn. Probably a good thing when the wind frequently shifts and you are the only one around!
The windmills here are called grondzeilers (or ground sail) windmills. That's because the sails almost touch the ground.
The windmills here are called grondzeilers (or ground sail) windmills. That’s because the sails almost touch the ground.
Going into the windmill, you are struck by how cramped it is compared to how you thought it would be looking from the outside. Also, very steep stairs. This is the upper wheel...
Going into the windmill, you are struck by how cramped it is compared to how you thought it would be looking from the outside. Also, very steep stairs. This is the upper wheel…
... which is then geared to the central shaft that somehow turns a waterwheel that pumps the water. Cogs and rods, lantern gears, shafts, scoop wheels -- too much for me!
… which is then geared to the central shaft that somehow turns a waterwheel that pumps the water. Cogs and rods, lantern gears, shafts, scoop wheels — too much for me!
Living spaces were arranged around the central core. Often the miller would have a large family (up to 12-13 kids) not only to help with the mill, but also farming on the surrounding land.
Living spaces were arranged around the central core. Often the miller would have a large family (up to 12-13 kids) not only to help with the mill, but also farming on the surrounding land.
Yeah, quarters were a bit snug. You wouldn't want to have claustrophobia or a fear of heights working in a mill!
Yeah, quarters were a bit snug. You wouldn’t want to have claustrophobia or a fear of heights working in a mill!
A Moses impersonator? As I understand it, the "cat in the cradle" lore surfaced around here describing the terrible flood of 1421 where a baby was saved in its cradle, while the cat jumped back and forth on the top of the cradle to keep it steady in the waves.
A Moses impersonator? As I understand it, the “cat in the cradle” lore surfaced around here describing the terrible flood of 1421 where a baby was saved in its cradle, while the cat jumped back and forth on the top of the cradle to keep it steady in the waves.
By the mid 1800s, modern pumps were installed to increase the pumping capacity. These three screw channels can be adjusted to allow pumping the water to different levels. Pretty amazing!
By the mid 1800s, modern pumps were installed to increase the pumping capacity. These three screw channels can be adjusted to allow pumping the water to different levels. Pretty amazing!

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Cruising, Europe, Netherlands, Travel
Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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