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A surprise visit, Lemaire Channel, and Petermann Island

December 30, 2017February 24, 2024 By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Antactica Dec. 2017 - Jan. 2018
Show More Posts
  • Buenos Aires, Argentina — the stopover
  • Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego National Park, Argentina
  • The Falkland Islands
  • South Georgia Island
  • On the “road” to Antarctica, Christmas aboard the Fram, and Elephant Island
  • Yankee Harbor and Deception Island, Antarctica
  • Danco and Cuverville Islands, Antarctica
  • Almirante Brown Station and Neko Harbor, Antarctica
  • A surprise visit, Lemaire Channel, and Petermann Island
  • The voyage home, New Year’s Eve, and some final thoughts

After our time in Neko Island, we steamed around a bit to hit the Lemaire Channel in the morning.  During dinner, we had quite a surprise — a pod of Orcas and a few Humpbacks that buzzed the ship for nearly 3 hours!  I’m not sure if we were churning up fish for them to eat or they were just curious, but they (and we) were having a great time!  What’s interesting is that there are actually 4 different species of Orcas that live down here, whose diet ranges from baby Minke whales to seals to a variety of fish.  Like most other Orcas (except our Southern Resident Killer Whales in the Northwest), these guys migrate as far away as Brazil.

Surrounded by Orcas — going this way…
… and that way!
We even had a few Humpies as part of the fun!

In the early morning, we started our transit into Lemaire Channel.  We were very lucky in that the weather was perfect, the wind mild, and the channel wasn’t blocked by ice (as I understand it, having all of those conditions simultaneously is pretty rare).  The channel itself separates Booth Island and the Antarctic Peninsula.  Both sides have have high mountains that come nearly straight down to the water.  It is nicknamed “Kodak Channel” as it is the most photographed spot in Antarctica.  I suspect you can see why!  Anyway, the channel is only 7 miles long and nearly a mile across (you could have fooled me — it looked a lot narrower and we were told it was about 1000 feet across, which makes a lot more sense!).

One of the unbelievably beautiful spots is the Lemaire Channel that separates Booth Island from the Peninsula.
At it’s narrowest point, the channel is around 1000 feet across. Of course, that is where the ice floe would present itself!
The walls of the cliffs are up to 1000 feet high!
The entrance has this formation that is affectionately known as “Uma’s Tits.” Explorers got pretty lonely out there.

The wind gods stayed with us which allowed us to land at Petermann Island, south of the Lemaire Channel. The island is relatively small (about a mile long and 0.75 miles across) and parts of it are walkable.  In addition to the beautiful views, there are about 5000 nesting pairs of Gentoos and our first glimpse of Adélie penguins (about 500 nesting pairs).  We took a short hike over to Circumcision Bay (don’t ask — explorers get to name things whatever they want), where we saw some amazing icebergs trapped by the wind.

This is Peterman Island. Incredible beauty in all directions.
Looking into Port Circumcision. It has lots of trapped icebergs…
… and our first Adelie Penguins (look for the flat head).
We actually saw some sailboats on our travels. Icebergs and sailboats — nah, I don’t think so.
I just love this iceberg picture and wanted to throw it in.

And then it was over — time to head home…

This entry was posted in Antarctica, Cruising, Travel
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Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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  Almirante Brown Station and Neko Harbor, Antarctica
The voyage home, New Year’s Eve, and some final thoughts  

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