The road to — and Jaipur, India

By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Seabourn Half-World cruise
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Seeing the Taj Mahal was one of the highlights of the trip, but there was much more to see.  So off to Jaipur we went.  As we were leaving Agra, we started noticing a long line of people walking in groups along the side of the road.  We kept seeing these throngs for the next 25 miles until we turned off.  It turned out that this was an annual pilgrimage made by farmers who walk for nearly 200 miles to make offerings to the Hindu god Balarama (agriculture and fertility).  It takes them several days to complete this walk.  We also noticed several colorful camps along the roadside, with food, drink, carpets, and loud music.  These camps are erected by people to be used by the pilgrims free of charge.  Why you might ask?  Remember karma?  It was amazing to see this and to recognize that this is an annual event done by people with very little money.

On the road to Jaipur, we stopped off to see the “Abandoned Palace” – the Fatehpur Sikri.  The Fatehpur Sikri was built by the Emperor Akbar in the late 16th century.  It was a large complex of monuments and temples, along with one of the largest mosques in India.  Unfortunately, it only served as the capital of the empire for about 10 years, as the threat of war with the Afghans caused the emperor to move the capital to Lahore (today in Pakistan) to be closer to the fighting.  Hence, the whole complex was largely abandoned, but stayed fairly intact since it was so far off the beaten path.  One of the coolest things to see there was a life-size Parcheesi (known as Pachisi in India where the game has its roots) board.  In this version of the game, the emperor and three other players would use the harem girls in different colored costumes as the pawns to move around in the game!

Jaipur itself is the capital and largest city in Rajasthan.  It is called the City of Victory, laid out by the great warrior/astronomer Maharaja Jai Singh II.  The city is surrounded by large hills/mountains, topped with forts and its own version of a Great Wall.  The other imposing structure outside the current city is the Amber (pronounced Amer) Palace, the citadel for rulers for hundreds of years.  From the very rough looking sandstone exterior, it is hard to imagine how beautiful and delicate the interior of the palace is.  Beautiful gardens, exceptional architectural elements and material brought from as far away as Europe, and lots of amazing art abound.  You can get up to the palace either by elephant or jeep (we opted for the jeep).  Probably the most memorable parts were the Sila Devi temple – where you touch the floor, ring a silver bell, and ask for a blessing from this incarnation of Kali; the Jai Mandir, that is the Maharajah’s private receiving area and is adorned with inlays of semi-precious stones and convex mirrors that glow in the mirror light; and the Sukh Mahal (Hall of Pleasure) that had a steam room, a hot tub large enough for the Maharajah and four of his ladies that washed him, and a relaxing area with a primitive “air conditioning” system.  On this part of the tour, we also learned a lot about the Hindu religion and gods, as well as some of the splinter sects.  One of the interesting ones was Jainism, whose followers believe in the spiritual independence and equality of all forms of life.  In one of their sects (Digambara), the priests walk around nude.  If you buy me a beer, I will also tell you how their nuns (Aryikas) are initiated…  Anyway, as were were touring the Amber Palace, we were followed by a group of young ladies for a while, who finally asked to have their picture taken with Glen.  Lots of giggling going on!

Following the Amber Palace, we visited the Old City/City Palace and Jantar Mantar.  At some point, the Maharaja Jai Singh decided that he had had enough of living in the hills, so he created a great walled city on the plains where the current city of Jaipur is today and, in fact, Maharajas have continued to live in what is called the City Palace until the present.  Much of the design of the City Palace is actually from the 19th and 20th centuries, and the influence/impact of the British occupation is clearly felt.  In fact, one of the Maharajas in 1876 painted the walls of the Old City pink (the color associated with hospitality in India) to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII).  By the way, this tradition continues – the current Maharaja is polo buddies with Prince Charles.

Also, with the Old City is the Jantar Mantar.  The Jantar Mantar is an amazing outdoor astronomical observatory that is filled with all types of stone structures that are carved to follow all aspects of sun and star movements.  The Maharajah Jai Singh created this, as he was a big believer (as are most Indians today) in astrology and its impact on people’s lives.  He sent people all over the globe to learn the most sophisticated astrophysical techniques of the day and then recreated them in stone there.  Here stands the largest sundial (27 meters) in the world and, despite being built in 1728, the instruments are still used today.

After a long day of touring, we went back to relax in our hotel (the Oberoi Rajvilas).  This is an amazing resort, made up of 32 acres of gardens, pools, fountains, and a wide variety of different birds (including very loud peacocks – at one point, it sounded like the soundtrack from a Tarzan movie!).

Off to Mumbai!

Heading out of Agra. Lots of vendors early in the morning.
Heading out of Agra. Lots of vendors early in the morning.
Just about everything wrong about driving -- talking on cell phone while driving a tractor, random water buffalo, etc!
Just about everything wrong about driving — talking on cell phone while driving a tractor, random water buffalo, etc!
The beginning of the pilgrim's procession.
The beginning of the pilgrim’s procession.
Pilgrim camps along the roadside.
Pilgrim camps along the roadside.
Some pilgrims walked; some rode.
Some pilgrims walked; some rode.
Deb rocking her Indian outfit! Very cool in the hot weather.
Deb rocking her Indian outfit! Very cool in the hot weather.

 

The private audience hall at Fatehpur Sikri
The private audience hall at Fatehpur Sikri

 

Emperor Akbar would stand above his audience to hold discussions.
Emperor Akbar would stand above his audience to hold discussions.

 

The human Parcheesi game!
The human Parcheesi game!

 

If it's not pilgrims, it's goats! No road goes unclogged!
If it’s not pilgrims, it’s goats! No road goes unclogged!
One of the other frequent sights along the road -- brickworks!
One of the other frequent sights along the road — brickworks!
A first view of the Amber Fort
A first view of the Amber Fort

 

The Amber Fort has its own version of the Great Wall.
The Amber Fort has its own version of the Great Wall.
A popular way to get to the Amber Fort is via camel through the King's Gate. Look at the coloring on the elephant.
A popular way to get to the Amber Fort is via camel through the King’s Gate. Look at the coloring on the elephant.
The stairway in the first courtyard leads to the main palace grounds as well as the Sila Devi Temple. This is where the great processions would come, with the women hidden behind the louvered walls above.
The stairway in the first courtyard leads to the main palace grounds as well as the Sila Devi Temple. This is where the great processions would come, with the women hidden behind the louvered walls above.
A number of people ride the elephants up the mountain to the fort. The good news is that the elephants only have to work 2 hours a day. Nice coloring too!
A number of people ride the elephants up the mountain to the fort. The good news is that the elephants only have to work 2 hours a day. Nice coloring too!

 

The entrance to the Sila Devi Temple. It turns out that I wasn't supposed to take this picture and will probably come back as a bug in my next life to make up for it...
The entrance to the Sila Devi Temple. It turns out that I wasn’t supposed to take this picture and I will probably come back as a bug in my next life to make up for it…
Entrance to the Fourth Courtyard, where all the women lived
Entrance to the Fourth Courtyard, where all the women lived

 

The hot tub in the Hall of Pleasure. Right out of the opening scene in "Coming to America" with Eddie Murphy
The hot tub in the Hall of Pleasure. Right out of the opening scene in “Coming to America” with Eddie Murphy
The Sheesh Mahal -- the hall of mirrors. Imagine this lit up by candles at night!
The Sheesh Mahal — the hall of mirrors. Imagine this lit up by candles at night!
The garden between the Sheesh Mahal and the Hall of Pleasure
The garden between the Sheesh Mahal and the Hall of Pleasure
Two of the young ladies that wanted their picture taken with Glen. Turnabout was fair play!
Two of the young ladies that wanted their picture taken with Glen. Turnabout was fair play!
One of the ladies that cleans the palace. She was a bit of a flirt!
One of the ladies that cleans the palace. She was a bit of a flirt!
It was only when we were leaving that I noticed the headlights on our jeep. Interesting!
It was only when we were leaving that I noticed the headlights on our jeep. Interesting!
More good karma in the making -- feeding camels by the side of the road.
More good karma in the making — feeding camels by the side of the road.
The Jantar Mantar -- an astronomical theme park!
The Jantar Mantar — an astronomical theme park!
Lots of complex instruments to track the sun, moon, and stars
Lots of complex instruments to track the sun, moon, and stars
This included precise measurements for each of the astronomical signs. Ken and I are Leo's!
This included precise measurements for each of the astronomical signs. Ken and I are Leo’s!
The world's largest stone sundial
The world’s largest stone sundial
Entrance to the City Palace in the Old City
Entrance to the City Palace in the Old City
Guards at the City Palace. Looking good, guys!
Guards at the City Palace. Looking good, guys!
Now here's something you don't see every day. This is a silver jar -- over 5 feet in height and 14 feet around. It was made out of 14000 silver coins. It and it's twin were filled with water from the Ganges River and transported to London so the Maharajah at that time could bathe in his "local water." It takes bottled water to a whole new level!
Now here’s something you don’t see every day. This is a silver jar — over 5 feet in height and 14 feet around. It was made out of 14000 silver coins. It and it’s twin were filled with water from the Ganges River and transported to London so the Maharajah at that time could bathe in his “local water.” It takes bottled water to a whole new level!

 

Loud peacocks at our hotel
Loud peacocks at our hotel
Over 32 acres of beautiful grounds -- well hidden right in the middle of Jaipur!
Over 32 acres of beautiful grounds — well hidden right in the middle of Jaipur!
Over 50 species of birds can be found on the resort grounds.
Over 50 species of birds can be found on the resort grounds.
Amazing attention to detail -- these floating flower petal "sculptures" were done fresh every day!
Amazing attention to detail — these floating flower petal “sculptures” were done fresh every day!

 

On the way back to the hotel, we thought we would stop for some refreshments. Ruh roh!
On the way back to the hotel, we thought we would stop for some refreshments. Ruh roh!

 

 

This entry was posted in India, Travel
Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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