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Sculpting clay at a wood carving school and Oberammergau

June 9, 2010March 1, 2024 By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Our Alpen Adventure

Last Christmas Deb gave me an amazingly thoughtful gift — a weeklong carving school in Austria. In her research she found that in addition to wood and stone carving, they also did clay sculpting (apparently you always start with a clay model before you start carving).  I found this intriguing because I had done a bit of carving in college, but also a little intimidating given some of the carvings I saw on the brochure.  In any regard, we were off to Elbigenalp, Austria!  Several hamlets form the municipal area of Elbigenalp, located between the Lechtal Alps and the Allgäu Alps. Its name derives from the term “elmige Alpe”, which refers to a meadow that is overgrown with green elm trees. The inhabitants, however, call Elbigenalp simply “s’Duarf” (the village). On the first day there we wandered around a bit to get our bearings.  It was right out of “Heidi” (yeah, I know Heidi takes place in Switzerland!).  Anyway, we were charmed, but also pretty tired after our long journey.

This is the entrance to the school.
Our pension. We have a nice room on the balcony. I think the mattresses are filled with gravel!
Geshundheit! BTW, my first thought when I saw this was Canadians and baby seals. Yeah, I know…pretty sick!
Beautiful scenery in the valley.
Where is Julie Andrews when you need her?

Then it was for class.  When we entered the school, there were some stunning carved figures all around.  That was a wee bit intimidating!  With the exception of Deb and I, the rest of the students were carving wood and were in another classroom.  We had another whole classroom to ourselves.  Our instructor was a pretty interesting character who had a lot of talent but went to the “tough love” school of instruction.  He always looked like he had just gotten out of bed after a previous night’s heavy drinking.  Who knows, maybe he had!  Deb decided she wasn’t going to thrive in that environment and chose to leave the class for other pursuits in the area.  I ended up sticking it out and, despite withering glances and smashing some of my in-progress pieces, he really did teach me a lot.  They were actually pretty long days of instruction, but I definitely felt like I came out with a lot of new knowledge.

This was the carving at the entrance to the school. Maybe we’ll be able to do that after a week’s instruction. Not!
Our classroom. The wood carvers were in another classroom. It got a little lonely in there…
My instructor good naturedly telling me what crap my work was. Tough love!
Deb’s first piece. Both the instructor and I thought it was good.
My first torso.
As the week wore on, the instructor had me doing harder projects…
… here was a bust…
… and a hand (BTW, look at those stubby fingers — guess who I used as a model?), …
… and a foot! I was really happy with what I was able to accomplish here!

After the last day of class, I hiked up one of the mountain trails.  To say it was bucolic would be an understatement.  Of course, one of the highlights was seeing all of the cows with their bells tinkling as they were grazing in some upper meadows.  Such a beautiful area and a pretty healthy walk!

Leaving the school for my hike.
The elevation climbed pretty rapidly…
… affording some incredible views!
These are snow fences to reduce the potential of avalanche. When you live in a valley between two mountain chains, it makes a lot of sense!
It’s amazing how high up they graze the cattle…
… and how steep the hills they have to climb to graze.
Aw, what a cutie. By this point, my head was pounding with all the bells around me!
Not sure what this was for, but I didn’t see a nameplate with Baggins on it…
One last look before heading down. Deb will think I got lost!

As luck would have it, our time at the carving school put us in the right timeframe to attend the Passion Play in Oberammergau, Germany, and luckily it was only about 30 miles away.  The Passion Play was originally performed in 1634 and the local legend is that if God spared the town from the effects of the bubonic plague that was rampant at that time, they would perform the play every 10 years, which they did.  The play is now performed in years ending with a zero and, with the exception of 1940 (due to onset of World War II) it has been!  About half the local residents (about 2000 people) perform in and/or support the play and they perform it every night between mid-May and early-October.  Phew!  We knew this was going to be a grind given that it starts at 2:30 pm and ends at 10 pm (leaving time for a meal break so all the performers, etc. can go home for dinner) in 16 acts, but it was really hot that day and sitting on the backless benches made us feel like we were having our own passion play! Having said that, it was truly an amazing production and we had a great time wandering around the town.  Much like Elbigenalp, Oberammergau is a wood carving town with its own school.  We saw some incredible work there!

Theater where the Passion Play is performed. It holds about 4700 people.
A view from the stage. We were sitting way up in the left hand corner but because the stage is so large and the sound so good, it was still really good.
We were sitting way up in the left hand corner but because the stage is so large and the sound so good, it was still really good. An amazing production.
Walking around town during the nearly 3 hour dinner break…
The homes are beautifully decorated with stencils…
… or murals. These are examples of “Lüftlmalerei,” or frescoes, of traditional Bavarian themes, fairy tales, religious scenes or architectural trompe-l’œil found on many homes and buildings. Lüftlmalerei is common in Upper Bavaria.
Lots of amazing sculpture in the town, including this bronze fountain…
… and statue.
Quite a beautiful place to live — but that heat!
This entry was posted in Austria, Europe, Germany, Travel
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Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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