Split, Croatia — The Adventure Begins!

By Glen Bruels

Ah, it’s good to be back in Croatia – beautiful surroundings, friendly and resilient people, amazing history, and great food!  On this trip we are spending a few days in Split, and then taking a gulet ( a 2-masted sailing vessel, originally from Turkey, but now broadly in use around the Eastern Mediterranean) sail down for a week down to Dubrovnik, and then a short stay there until we fly to Turkey.

We are excited about being in Split.  It has a very rich history and some amazing architecture all the way back from Roman times.  But, as with the rest of Croatia, it has some recent history as part of the Homeland War back in 1991, after Croatia had seceded and declared independence.  Split was shelled by the Serb-controlled, Yugoslav People’s Army but the locals from Split and the nearby islands drove their naval forces out.  Obviously, this is a point of pride with the locals.

The other significant bragging rights have to do with their contribution to the Croatian Olympic team, which only came together in 1992.  That year, the Croatian basketball team reached the finals against the US “Dream Team” (you remember, Jordan, Johnson, Bird, etc.) and won Silver.  Many of the members of that team (Petrovic, Kukoc, Rada, Tabak) came from Split and they went on to have very successful NBA careers.  Many of the Croatian medal winning handball and water polo teams come from here too!

One other major point of pride from the area has to do with Zinfandel – it originated from this region.  Yes, yes, I know, Italy claims it, South Africa claims it, but after some DNA profiling, it turns out that the Zinfandel we enjoy from California and the Primitivo we enjoy from Italy all come the grape known as Crljenak Kastelanski here.  And, we can attest, they are yummy here – less full than the CA Zins, but with a lot of spice.  The local story is that “local boy made good” Mike Grgich (yes, the Grgich of Grgich Hills Winery) made the grape famous in CA, but it appears that it has been around at least as far back as the Gold Rush.

As I noted, the history of Split is long and storied.  It probably started as a Greek colony in the 4th century BC, but it is better know for its Roman period when it was capital of Dalmatia.  Probably the most prominent landmark is the Palace of the Emperor Diocletian (Diocletian was a local boy who rose through the ranks of the military and was ultimately proclaimed emperor after the death of Emperor Carus and his some during a Persian Campaign).  The town is built around the Palace and the architecture is stunning and things like the aqueduct are still in use.  Through rest of its history, it was Byzantine, Venetian (a notable holdout from the Ottoman Empire), Hungarian, Napoleonic, French, Austrian, Italian, German, Yugoslavian, and finally independent.  Whew!

Okay, now some random thoughts about walking around Split.  It is amazingly well preserved – especially given the number of times it has been sacked.   If you start from the period of Diocletian, the castle walls and the cathedral of St. Dominius (technically the oldest cathedral in Europe, although it started as Diocletian’s mausoleum), are really pretty pristine.  As a Roman Emperor, Diocletian was seen as a pretty good guy, except he had a nasty habit of persecuting Christians (lots of them!) by beheading.  Needless to say, after he died, the Christians destroyed his tomb, tore down a lot of his structures, and then used to stone to build what would ultimately become the medieval version of the walled city (many more buildings, much narrower streets, etc.).  This went on all the way into the early 20th century where you still see some signs of Austro-Hungarian architecture.  Fortunately, as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Split will be preserved as is.  We also ended up walking for around 7 miles along the coastline, taking in the marinas and rocky beaches, while trying to reach the top of Marjan Park (a beautiful wooded park and the highest point in the area).  After a couple of strategic wrong turns, we gave up and went to a couple of museums with the works of Ivan Meštrović, a Croatian sculptor, who also has works in the US.

I should note that while we were in Split, they were filming some scenes for The Game of Thrones in the basement of the Diocletian Castle.  While we couldn’t get to where the actual filming was taking place, we did see some of the areas where they were tearing down sets and saw a lot of the props, etc.  Outside, all the film trucks, etc. took up an entire city block.  I was going to offer to be a stand-in for Peter Dinklage, but thought better of it…

In preparation for our boat trip, we did some obligatory wine tasting and then went in search of a wine shop that we had been told about.  After walking forever, we gave up and returned empty-handed.  Luckily, our resourceful wives had gone out and bought some wine and whiskey!  Off to sea with us!

One of the squares in the old city. Great mix of Roman, Medieval, and Austro-Hungarian architecture.
One of the squares in the old city. Great mix of Roman, Medieval, and Austro-Hungarian architecture.
One of the towers guarding the old city.
One of the towers guarding the old city.
Some local novitiates. This is a very Catholic country.
Some local novitiates. This is a very Catholic country.
Walking along the Riva (waterfront). We were told there was an excellent market along the Riva -- several miles later, we never found it!
Walking along the Riva (waterfront). We were told there was an excellent market along the Riva — several miles later, we never found it!
The big one that almost got away!
The big one that almost got away!
One of the many yachts docked in Split. I have to say, this is the first boat I have ever seen from Bikini Island!
One of the many yachts docked in Split. I have to say, this is the first boat I have ever seen from Bikini Island!
Seaside sculpture and party boats. Some of these boats go out for multiple day cruises and are expressly designed for young folks -- lots of booze, bunk rooms down below, cruising between the islands, and cheap!
Seaside sculpture and party boats. Some of these boats go out for multiple day cruises and are expressly designed for young folks — lots of booze, bunk rooms down below, cruising between the islands, and cheap!
This is Sustipan, a beautiful park overlooking the marina. As everything else here, Sustipan includes the ruins of a Roman village and ultimately had a monastery built on it. Very peaceful!
This is Sustipan, a beautiful park overlooking the marina. As everything else here, Sustipan includes the ruins of a Roman village and ultimately had a monastery built on it. Very peaceful!
Looking up the coast from Sustipan. In general, the Dalmatian Coast is very tropical, so you see lots of palm trees, agave, cactus, etc!
Looking up the coast from Sustipan. In general, the Dalmatian Coast is very tropical, so you see lots of palm trees, agave, cactus, etc!
Looking out over the marina. One of the better managed marinas I have seen.
Looking out over the marina. One of the better managed marinas I have seen.
Walking along the coastline in Marjan Park. For a city this size, this is a massive park with beaches, forests, mountains, etc. We ended up walking about 9 miles -- a bit longer than Deb was looking for!
Walking along the coastline in Marjan Park. For a city this size, this is a massive park with beaches, forests, mountains, etc. We ended up walking about 9 miles — a bit longer than Deb was looking for!
On our walk, we were trying to find our way to the top of the mountain. Here a convenient sign pointed the way...
On our walk, we were trying to find our way to the top of the mountain. Here a convenient sign pointed the way…
Here, Deb starts her way up the trail (with some grumbling about bugs and the distance). Unfortunately, we must have missed a turn and ended up going through a nice vineyard back to the road we started on. Deb was not interested in backtracking to find where we went wrong!
Here, Deb starts her way up the trail (with some grumbling about bugs and the distance). Unfortunately, we must have missed a turn and ended up going through a nice vineyard back to the road we started on. Deb was not interested in backtracking to find where we went wrong!
Instead we ended going through a chapel and museum focusing on the sculptures of Ivan Meštrović, a Croatian sculptor who also lived in the US. I love this piece!
Instead we ended going through a chapel and museum focusing on the sculptures of Ivan Meštrović, a Croatian sculptor who also lived in the US. I love this piece!
Near the entrance to Diocletian's castle
Near the entrance to Diocletian’s castle
Inside St. Dominius Cathedral. Arguably, this is the oldest cathedral in Europe as it was Emperor Diocletian's mausoleum. The Christians weren't too happy with Diocletian and they tore his mausoleum, crypt, and body to shreds. Ah well, live by the sword...
Inside St. Dominius Cathedral. Arguably, this is the oldest cathedral in Europe as it was Emperor Diocletian’s mausoleum. The Christians weren’t too happy with Diocletian and they tore his mausoleum, crypt, and body to shreds. Ah well, live by the sword…
The bell tower of the cathedral. I was tempted to go higher, but...
The bell tower of the cathedral. I was tempted to go higher, but…
... and then I remembered that I am terrified of heights -- especially, big open ones!
… and then I remembered that I am terrified of heights — especially, big open ones!
Having said that, the views were pretty dramatic!
Having said that, the views were pretty dramatic!
Another repurposing -- the Temple to Jupiter miraculously becomes a baptismal in honor of St. John the Baptist!
Another repurposing — the Temple to Jupiter miraculously becomes a baptismal in honor of St. John the Baptist!
Adjacent to the Temple of Jupiter is the narrowest street in Split. Yes, that is a named street!
Adjacent to the Temple of Jupiter is the narrowest street in Split. Yes, that is a named street!

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Much of the stone used in the old city came from the nearby island of Brac. It is a beautiful, hard limestone and has been used in several other countries -- including for the White House. The entrance, however, used a softer stone from another island to allow easier carving of figures.
Much of the stone used in the old city came from the nearby island of Brac. It is a beautiful, hard limestone and has been used in several other countries — including for the White House. The entrance, however, used a softer stone from another island to allow easier carving of figures.
After Diocletian's death, a lot of the original structures were destroyed, with the stone reused to make new buildings. With the addition of the many new buildings, the streets became much narrower. If you look closely, you can see a couple of original street drains that are now inside a bank. BTW, Split still uses the Roman aqueduct and sewage systems!
After Diocletian’s death, a lot of the original structures were destroyed, with the stone reused to make new buildings. With the addition of the many new buildings, the streets became much narrower. If you look closely, you can see a couple of original street drains that are now inside a bank. BTW, Split still uses the Roman aqueduct and sewage systems!
Many of the areas of the walled city have nice open courtyards and the buildings house both local residents and shops. This is very close to the ruins of Diocletian's Dining Hall.
Many of the areas of the walled city have nice open courtyards and the buildings house both local residents and shops. This is very close to the ruins of Diocletian’s Dining Hall.
Over time, though, some of the buildings have been damaged -- this one by an earthquake.
Over time, though, some of the buildings have been damaged — this one by an earthquake.
Needless to say, Diocletian's Palace is packed with tourists. Once an hour, there is a big parade with Diocletian, his queen and a number of Roman legions. After the parade, "It's Miller Time!"
Needless to say, Diocletian’s Palace is packed with tourists. Once an hour, there is a big parade with Diocletian, his queen and a number of Roman legions. After the parade, “It’s Miller Time!”
At the same time, life goes on for the locals. Here a young newly married couple is walking their way to their reception.
At the same time, life goes on for the locals. Here a young newly married couple is walking their way to their reception.
Deb checking out the "Game of Thrones" film crew.
Deb checking out the “Game of Thrones” film crew.
The filming was going on in different parts of castle that were roped off, but we were able to see where they had finished and were tearing down the sets. Lots of props around. Pretty cool!
The filming was going on in different parts of castle that were roped off, but we were able to see where they had finished and were tearing down the sets. Lots of props around. Pretty cool!
There were lots of trailers for the actors. Deb kept looking over the fence -- she was hoping to see John Snow!
There were lots of trailers for the actors. Deb kept looking over the fence — she was hoping to see John Snow!
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We were nearing time to leave Split and go on the boat. Given that, we needed to stock up on the wine and, not knowing Croatian wines, we decided to do a little tasting. Lots of excellent wines!
This entry was posted in Croatia, Travel
Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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