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Avoiding Vegas — and loving it!

September 11, 2020February 18, 2024 By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called COVID and Fire Tour 2020
Show More Posts
  • COVID and Fire Tour 2020 — Introduction
  • A quick stop at Mt. Rainier
  • A short visit to Mt. Hood
  • An interesting (and largely eventful) time at Newberry National Volcanic Monument
  • Lava Beds National Monument
  • Fire Evasion!
  • Avoiding Vegas — and loving it!
  • Kickin’ Route 66 and the Grand Canyon
  • Migration — Communities that share the land on their way to somewhere (like us!)
  • Red Rockin’ Utah’s (and a little of Arizona’s) National Parks and Monuments
  • The journey home and final thoughts

There were lots of things that we wanted to see around Las Vegas, without actually going there (too many crowds and unmasked people).  Our first stop was the second of our “discoveries” during the trip re-plan — Tule Springs Fossil Beds National Monument.  The first clue that this was not going to go well is that neither Google Maps nor Apple Maps could accurately get us there.  When we did arrive, there was a small sign kiosk talking about the area, everything would see, etc. — but that’s it!  We had to jump a fence to get in and wandering around a lot of sandstone formations, but nothing was obvious or marked.  We ultimately went back to the kiosk and saw that there was another unit (Ice Age Fossils State Park), so we went over to check it out.  Based on automated directions, that place is now in the middle of a new housing development under construction.  Needless to say, we were kind of bummed out.  We later learned that this national monument is in it’s very early days and the only way to explore it is on a guided expedition.  Ah well!

Essentially our only indication we were in a national monument…
Doesn’t look much like a trail to me. Where are the signs, etc.?
Deb in search of — whatever she can find…
After failing at this location we went to the state park section which appears to have been subsumed by housing development.

Red Rock Canyon is a beautiful area within 5 miles of some of the outskirt neighborhoods of Vegas.  It’s a National Conservation Area administered by BLM.  There is a great Scenic Drive around the park that gives you a sense of both the geologic diversity and grandeur that is represented here.  As you climb, you also get some interesting views of the city just beyond.  As far as hiking is concerned, there are lots of trails, but most tend to be moderate or difficult and are back-country, requiring several hours to do them.  Since we had neither the time nor inclination to do those, we took one of the “easy” trails to find an advertised petroglyph wall.  I would offer an observation here — their trail maps and signage along the trails suck!  We ended up on the wrong trail twice!  The trails were also very rocky and steep.  That would be okay if we had prepared for that.  At one point, Deb and I took different splits in the trail to try to find those pesky petroglyphs — neither one of us ever did.  What I did, however, was started climbing at an increasingly steep angle, scrambling over rocks.  I then saw a sign ahead that wasn’t directions to the petroglyphs; it was a notice that I was at their wilderness boundary!  I finally made it down and we decided to give up our quest.  I should mention that we stayed a couple of nights at the Red Rock Campground and recommend it highly — spacious sites, very clean, and convenient to the park.

Working our way around the 13-mile scenic loop. Here are the Calico Rocks.
A desert willow in bloom. That’s the great thing about the desert — beautiful shots of brilliant color against a more muted background.
A view from the High Point Overlook — great views of the city!
After a false start due to confusing trail maps, we were off in search of petroglyphs. This is one of the few “easy” trails.
Unfortunately, the signage on the trail was terrible. We decided to split on a couple of different paths and then contact each other to see who found the right one.
Along the way, a beautiful manzanita tree. Love the red bark!
My trail kept getting steeper and rockier. I thought “this can’t be right and certainly not an easy trail”. It did afford some beautiful views though…
And that’s when I ran into this trail marker. I had climbed to the edge of their wilderness area. Yikes! I ended up scrabbling down to meet Deb. Neither one of us ever found the petroglyphs…
A typical section of my trail. Beautifully colored rocks, however
A sunset view from our campground

The next day we decided to drive about 1.5 hours out of the city to the Valley of Fire State Park.  It turns out that this was the first state park in Nevada, built to protect all of the natural and cultural features that were there.  We really loved this place!  Most of the features of the park are readily accessible by car or short hike.  The formations for the most part are red rock in all sorts of shapes and sizes.  There are also lots of petroglyphs here.  Given that the valley is fairly well protected from the elements, it’s not surprising that is was occupied for such a long period (300 BC-1150 AD), including the Basket Maker people and later the Anasazi that farmed the nearby Moapa Valley.  We were amazed at both the numbers and diversity of the petroglyphs themselves.  Many would be recognizable to fans of Southwest rock art but, once again, there were some that we didn’t recognize and couldn’t understand.  We also came across a herd of Bighorn Sheep grazing their way along.  At both parks, we kept seeing warning signs about the desert tortoise.  They are protected under state law.  Sadly, we didn’t see any.

So many cool rock formations at the Valley of Fire. These are “Beehives”
Lots of places to hide parts, or all of you!
The muted green shades of the plants make such a nice contrast to the red rocks.
We were fortunate to come across a grazing herd of Bighorn Sheep. They weren’t intimidated by us at all.
But, for us, it’s all about the petroglyphs. They are scattered throughout the park.
And, sadly, there is graffiti here as well. Screw you, Ike!
In one canyon, there were large walls that were literally covered with petroglyphs.
Some seem very familiar…
… while others we had never seen before. We have so many other pictures of these — way too many to post here. I guess you’ll have to go for yourselves!

Anyway, this was a pleasant stay.  The temperature never got above 91 F (it’s a dry heat…) and cooled off very nicely at night.  Today we are heading down to Williams, AZ and will spend some time at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

This entry was posted in National Park/Monument, Nevada, Travel, United States
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Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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