Ollantaytambo, Peru

By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Galápagos Islands and Macchu Picchu 2022
Show More Posts

On our second day in the Sacred Valley, it was time to do a little climbing. In some respects, it was a dry run for our trip to Machu Picchu on Thursday. Deb decided to take the day off to save her strength for what we really came here for. Our target for the day was one of the archeological centers of the Sacred Valley — Ollantaytambo. This used to be an Inca administrative center and gateway to the Amazon portion of the Inca Empire. It also was the last stronghold of the Inca resistance against the Spanish invasion and conquest. Today it is a tourist center and one of the first stops along the Inca Trail. This is also where you catch the train to Machu Picchu. There had been an earlier settlement here that the Incas captured and expanded, adding terraces for farming and an irrigation system. This area is called the fortress and it really is huge. We climbed over 200 steps between the agricultural terraces to get up to the Temple of the Sun (at over 9000 feet), which acted as a calendar and played a special role in the summer and winter solstices. Our group of 22 had been divided into 2 groups for the trip.  We both made the climb (stopping periodically to rest on the stones (or locally known as Inca sofas), but our group made it all the way to the very top.  As a consequence, we named ourselves Team Guanaco (essentially a wild llama). What was truly amazing was both the size of the granite and limestone boulders that were interlocked to strengthen the structure. Some of these boulders weigh over 50 tons and were transported from three different quarries in the area using logsto roll them along. They even used expansion joints to provide protection during times of earthquakes. From the Temple of the Sun, we made our way over to the Inca Trail and then descended down through another part of the Fortress. The stairs were quite uneven and very steep, but we made it!

Coming into Ollantaytambo, we traveled by some of the original Incan walls that now have been incorporated into people’s homes.
We also came across these guys, who were airing out their camping gear. It turns out that these guys are porters. When you do the multi-day hike to Machu Picchu, these guys carry all your gear. Quite civilized!
Arriving at the Ollantaytambo archeological site. Of course, there always have to be vendors selling stuff from China. In this case, though, they were selling walking sticks and coca candy. Very smart!
This is a map of the complex. The drill for the day was to climb up the left side and down the right side.
Yeah, that’s pretty intense…
Taking a breather part of the way up. Apparently, the Incans were quite tall, and the steepness of the steps would attest to that fact.
Looking across the valley at some old grain storage areas up in the mountains. I guess if you grew crops up there, you would want to store there too.
The size of the boulders and joinery were really impressive. And while, they were tall, I guess they weren’t that tall…
They even used expansion joints to accommodate the periodic earthquakes they would happen there.
A view from the top. Pretty commanding!
A walk along the Inca Trail…
… with some pretty interesting views from the side.
But what goes up, must come down.
At least the steps were a little better at the bottom.

After that we did a brief walk through the old city before heading out. From there we went to watch an equestrian show featuring Peruvian Paso horses. Their gait was similar to dressage, but their legs also swing out to the sides, almost like a dance step. It was very entertaining. We ended our at the Pablo Seminario ceramic workshop that showcases both utilitarian and artistic pieces. As someone who works with clay, it was very interesting to look at their technique. Anyway, tomorrow we are off to Machu Picchu!

Walking back through the little town gave us a better view of what we had climbed.
Many of the buildings in the town were built on the original Incan foundations.
Lots of narrow streets to wander through…
… with lots of restaurants (note that they stuffed a pepper in the guinea pig’s mouth)…
… and even pool halls (don’t you shoot pool in a thong?)
The town square. On this day, the police were doing traffic stops and handing out tickets for various things. We see this in Mexico too.
Nearby, we saw what they called “sky lodges” hanging off the cliffs. Each module is 24 feet long and 8 feet high. Some are over 1300 up. To get there, you have to hike up (with your trusty porter) and then zip line to get down. They cost more than $400 per night. No thanks!
A horse demonstration before lunch. These a Peruvian Paso horses that have a pure lineage back to the horses brought by the Spanish. They have an unusual gait, but are praised for their smooth ride.
Our final stop of the day at a ceramics studio. The couple that work on these pieces blend old Incan techniques with some experimental ones of their own. I got to see their kilns and talk clay stuff. It was fun…
This entry was posted in Peru, South America, Travel
Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

Related Posts