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Arita, Japan

April 16, 2024April 19, 2024 By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Northern Pacific Wanderings 2024
Show More Posts
  • Northern Pacific Wanderings 2024 — here we go!
  • Enjoying a few days in Hong Kong
  • A day in Kaohsiung and Tainan, Taiwan
  • A quick trip to the Penghu Islands
  • Two Days in Taipei, Taiwan
  • Naha, Okinawa
  • Two days in Beijing
  • Two days in Incheon and Seoul, South Korea
  • Jeju Island, Korea
  • Busan, Korea in a day!
  • Nagasaki, Japan
  • Arita, Japan
  • Miyajima and Hiroshima, Japan
  • Kyoto’s Bamboo Forest and Rock Garden
  • Matsushima, Japan
  • Hakadote, Japan
  • Kushiro, Japan
  • Dutch Harbor….er, Unalaska, Alaska
  • Kodiak, AK
  • Homer, AK
  • Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, AK
  • Sitka, AK
  • Klawock and Craig, AK
  • A Nanaimo, BC, Canada drive by
  • Vancouver BC, end of trip, and final thoughts

After arriving in the port city of Fukuoka, we went up into the mountains to the birthplace of Japanese porcelain — Arita. I wanted to come here for two reasons: (1) I’m a clay kinda guy and seeing how others perform their art and craft is of great interest to me, and (2) an Australian friend of mine worked here as part of an exchange through the Rotary Club (I actually got to see where she worked!) Anyway, while Japan had been making pottery since time immemorial, they were a little late to the game with porcelain. Porcelain pottery making really started in China, then went to Korea, and then to Japan. The key was finding the right clay — in this case, kaolin, which a soft white clay that is the primary ingredient in producing porcelain. That occurred in the late 16th century. For many years, China was the primary exporter of porcelain around the world, but when they shut themselves off to the rest of the world, Japan stepped up and filled the gap. In fact, they went well beyond the traditional blue and white style of Chinese porcelain and started to add overglazes to create more depth and visual interest.

As we came into town, I couldn’t help but notice that the streets looked amazingly empty and about 95% of the shops were closed. It turns out that it was a holiday. Arrgghh! Anyway, we got to visit one factory that my friend worked at (Fukuyama Seji) and then wandered around town. There were a few shops open (including Koransha — another place my friend worked at) and I walked around seeing the other sites of the town, including their local pottery museum. What’s interesting is that there are so many historic and traditional buildings from the Meiji Period (1868-1912). It’s registered as a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings in Japan. My window shopping identified a couple of pieces that I would love to have purchased but, unfortunately, the shop was closed.

Pulling into Arita — looking a little deserted.
Arriving at the Fukuyama Seji factory.
The current owner of the factory explaining their process — no tour though.
This is the kaolin, the basis for the porcelain clay.
Rather than spending a lot of time in the factory shop, I explored the town.
A section of a wall in the town is constructed with used fire brick from the kilns.
One of the local cemeteries.
I know Gundam is an anime character, but not too sure how it relates to this.
Hey, at least the museum was open!
This gorgeous piece came from around 1680. The museum had quite an impressive collection.
This was the piece I fell in love with, but the shop was closed…
Doesn’t seem to be much going on in the factories.

After yet another amazing lunch (are you picking up a trend here?), we went to another porcelain factory and were given a tour by the owner. They have been producing porcelain here since the mid-1800s and, in fact, had some pieces shown at an exhibition in Paris shortly thereafter. The factory has only 15 employees, but turns out an incredible amount of work — mostly functional pieces. The owner was as an absolute hoot and a very gracious host. He patiently took us through the factory with translation provided by our guide. At one point, I showed him some of my pieces and in said, in English, “Ah, artist. You get it!” That was pretty cool! Anyway, we enjoyed some retail therapy and then headed back to port.

And the wonderful lunches continue!
Meeting the “Boss” with our guide providing translation services.
In their process, damp clay is injected into a mold under pressure…
… then the design is hand painted onto the piece…
…each artisan focuses on a particular part of the design…
…then the pieces are glazed…
… then into the kiln on large racks for firing. Overglazes can then be added and refined if needed.
#2 showing off his designs and the impact that glazing has.
One of the old wood-fires kilns. Obviously, much bigger production today!

The next stop is another sobering one — Hiroshima.

This entry was posted in Arita, Cruising, Japan, Travel
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Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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