Kyoto’s Bamboo Forest and Rock Garden

By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Northern Pacific Wanderings 2024
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After a sobering trip to Hiroshima, we were off to go to Kobe, Japan (yes, the Kobe with the wagyu beef). It’s actually quite a large city, but there was nothing in particular that we wanted to see there. So off we went to go and visit the bamboo forest and private garden in the northern part of Kyoto. Two things of note about that plan: (1) Kobe was horribly smoggy and we were ready to get out of there (our guide said that all of this pollution was coming from China) and (2) we were shocked at just how much Kyoto was just a regular city, and not just the area around the castle, temple, etc. Anyway, we were off to visit the Ryoan-ji, the site of Japan’s most famous rock garden. Originally an aristocrat’s villa, the site was converted into a Zen training temple in 1450. It belongs to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism (there are 13 different sects in Buddhism). What this temple is known for its 3600 square foot Zen Rock Garden. You have probably seen a picture of this garden somewhere. It was built around 1500 and what sets it apart is its absolute simplicity — it’s only 15 rocks set in white gravel that is raked in a pattern. I probably would have felt a little more Zen about it, but the place was packed and everyone was jockeying for photo locations. The other notable element of the temple was the Tea Room Zoroku that has beautiful wall panels. The grounds around the nearby Kyoyochi Pond (that was created in the late 12th century) were nicely laid out with little surprises that would pop up here and there. One such surprise was Tsukubai, a stone wash basin for the tea room built in the 17th century. What attracted me to this was the inscription that said “I learn only to be contented.” In a lot of ways, that is how I feel about learning.

A Buddha just past the entrance to the Ryonji Temple.
The painted screens in the temple tea room were very elaborate.
Doesn’t this seem like a relaxing setting?
Of course, it’s all about the Zen Rock Garden. Doesn’t it look peaceful? It would, bust just behind me were about a hundred people who were clamoring for the same shot.
Wash basin near the tea house with my new mantra.
Beautiful plantings around Kyoyochi Pond.
Yet another in a series of exotic lunches!

Anyway, from there we were off to Arashiyama, the second most important sight seeing district in Kyoto — which I can confirm by the sheer number of people there. While there are a number of shrines there, we were there to see the famous Bamboo Grove and the Kochi Sanso Garden. The Bamboo Grove is mesmerizing, with thousands of bamboo plants on either side of the walkway, creating what is know as “Bamboo Alley.” Once again, the crowds were somewhat intimidating and took away from the peacefulness of the place, but it was still pretty amazing. We also stopped at the Nonomiya-jinja Shrine, a very popular Shinto Shrine in the area. Originally, built in the 9th century, this was a place of rituals and purification for royal priestesses that would make offerings at the Ise Shrine. It was also mentioned in the 11th century novel “The Tale of the Genji.” What makes this shrine a little different than many others we have visited is that the torii gates are black (versus red), made to look like unstripped timber, reflecting back on the early days of Shintoism. There are also a number of sub-shrines dedicated to a number of local gods.

Bamboo Alley. I’m sure this could be spectacular…
… but it’s a little harder when you are jostling with all your new best friends.
I have to admit that I liked this fallen, bent bamboo. Not sure what the symbolism is…
Entering the Nonomiya-jinja Shrine. The black torii gate was a bit of a surprise.
There was a lot of traffic in here and lots of different elements to pray for.
One of the many sub-shrines. Not sure what this one is all about, but love all the little figures in the front.
They even had a micro garden. Just to give you the scale, the bridge is less than a foot long. But is was designed and built to look real (in real world dimensions).

From there, we went to the Okochi Sanso Garden, named after a famous Japanese silent film star, Okochi Denjiro. He constructed the over five acre garden over a 30 year period. There are a wide variety of flowering trees and plants that provide color during three seasons and an elegant tea room. There are also a variety of sinuous paths with a variety of pavilions along the way to keep the garden interesting.

Entering the Okochi Sanso Garden
Little paths winding through the plantings…
… leading to little pavilions surrounded by pines…
… or a tea house in the woods…
… or even a shrine across the valley.
A memorial to the silent film actor that made this whole garden possible.
We found our way back to the tourist retail area and this raised two questions: (1) have they paid their license fee to the Schultz family for the use of Snoopy, and (2) aren’t dogs allergic to chocolate?
And here is the world’s smallest Rolls Royce. Gotta love tourist zones!

It was a good day, despite the long bus ride to get there and back and a dismal guide. Now we are off to Sendai, the capital city of Miyagi Prefecture.

This entry was posted in Cruising, Japan, kyoto, Travel
Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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