When you leave Ushuaia on a ship, you spend quite a bit of time transiting the Beagle Channel which is protected by mountains on both sides. It’s only when you emerge into the Atlantic that you discover what is waiting for you in terms of sea conditions. With all the wind that was blowing in Ushuaia, it’s probably no surprise that the seas were going to be rough — and they were. Of course, at night this just means you are being rocked to sleep (somewhat violently). We were heading down to Cape Horn, the southernmost headland in Chile, that is located on the tiny Hornos Island (not the southernmost point of South America which is nearby Aguila Islet). It marks the northern boundary of the infamous Drake Passage and is the demarcation line between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. So is it as wild as they say it is? Let’s talk about some maritime nicknames for the area. You’ve probably heard of the “roaring forties” (latitudes below 40 degrees south, but have you heard about the “furious fifties” and the “screaming sixties?” To pass around Cape Horn, you have to be at 56 degrees south. It’s all about the prevailing winds that blow from west to east that then generate the big waves that can be magnified by some of the nearby shallows. It’s no wonder that this area is the largest ships’ cemetery in the world with over 800 ships and 10,000 sailors lost over the years. The original plan was for us to pass as close as possible to get a look at the cape and its iconic lighthouse and memorial but, amazingly, the winds died down (ish) enough for us to make a landing. After climbing the 150+ steps, we got to see the lighthouse and chapel that are operated by the Chilean Navy. We weren’t able to get close to the memorial sculpture, created by Chilean José Balcells that is made of two parts that reveal the form of an albatross — it was too windy. Anyway, it was humbling to visit and to think of the history that played out there. In fact, the history is being updated because new ships that are too big for the Panama Canal have to make this passage. We had to cut our trip there a bit short as another storm was on us that gave us big rains and wind, but luckily not many waves.
I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.
