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Vanimo, Papua New Guinea

September 16, 2025October 8, 2025 By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called Oceania 2025
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  • Agats, West Papua, Indonesia
  • Kokas, West Papua, Indonesia
  • Misool, Yapap Lagoon, Indonesia
  • Yenwaupnor, Gam Island, Indonesia
  • Mansinam Island, West Papua, Indonesia
  • Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia
  • Cenderwasih Bay, Indonesia Supplemental
  • Vanimo, Papua New Guinea
  • Garove Island, Papua New Guinea
  • Duke of York Island and Rabaul, Papua New Guinea — and the trip takes a turn for the worse
  • Ghizo Island, Solomon Islands and my health situation is still uncertain
  • Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands; a 72-hour pause in our trip; and a triumphant return!
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  • Pangai and Nukupule Island, Ha’Apai Group, Tonga
  • Vavau, Tonga
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  • Aitutaki, Cook Islands
  • Raiatea, Society Islands, French Polynesia
  • Maroe Bay, Huahine Iti, French Polynesia
  • Bora Bora, French Polynesia and end of trip

Today was a special day. We arrived in Vanimo, Papua New Guinea (PNG) which is the northwestern part of the country (near Indonesia) and is the capital of Sandaun Province. What made the day special was the fact that we arrived on the 50th anniversary of PNG’s independence. The ship actually received a US State Department advisory that suggested not going to the main part of Vanimo because the celebration could get out of hand (lots of betel nut chewing here that produces some narcotic effects). Instead, we went to the little village of West Sepik across Dakriro Bay. As we have experienced in other communities, everyone came out to celebrate our arrival with lots of singing, dancing, and crafts. What made this different, though, is nearly everyone spoke English (they are taught from an early age). That made communicating a lot easier and we had some very interesting interchanges about life there before and after independence. But everyone was decked out in their 50th anniversary regalia with flags flying everywhere. The other interesting thing was that many other regional tribes joined the celebration and the locals were enjoying the new arrivals’ performances as much as we did. There were a number of demonstrations going on as well. As we had seen in Pulau Yende, the sago palm tree plays a critical role in people’s lives here, providing not only a source of food, but also for construction materials. One difference between here and Pulau Yende is that the men are ones pounding the sago using a specialized tool with a metal end to shred the pulp. I spoke with the man doing it; he told me he was 62. I observed that this must be very hard work and he grinned, showing his betel nut stained teeth. I think I got it! While not a demonstration, we also watched a young woman getting tattooed. Apparently, this is a rite of passage when a girl comes into womanhood. The tattoos are a sign of her eligibility. It was a really great day!

Our initial welcoming party by the beach.
We had to walk about a half mile through their village to get to the resort where the celebration was to take place.
All along the road, PNG Independence flags and banners were flying.
Deb making new friends along the way.
It seems that everyone is joining in the celebration.
Flag raising and singing the national anthem. You could sense the pride.
Groups from different villages then began their dances. I missed this one but am sure impressed with the costumes!
This was the second time I saw natives painting their bodies black. When I asked a local, I was told that this almost always involves some warrior dance and it is supposed to invoke fear.
Other dances seemed more happy and celebratory.
There were also a number of demonstrations like sago processing. What was different here is that it is the men who pound the sago. Apparently, there is a fair amount of betel nut chewing associated with this…
… and the finished product is portioned and wrapped individually for longer storage. Clever!
While not a demonstration, we did witness a girl “coming of age” and getting her first tattoos. I can’t imagine how painful that must have been.
Now here’s something I could relate to — hand building clay pots! We compared techniques and I tried to explain them to some of the other passengers. Of course, they fire their ware in the fire — no kilns here. Pretty cool!
My new buddy!
But then it was time to leave. Happy Independence Day, guys, and thanks for the hospitality!
This entry was posted in Cruising, Papua New Guinea, Travel
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Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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