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At the edge of the Garden Route — Port Elizabeth, South Africa

March 16, 2026March 16, 2026 By Glen Bruels
This is part of a series called South Africa 2026
Show More Posts
  • Johannesburg and Soweto, South Africa — a sobering day
  • A journey on Rovos Rail!
  • Rovos Stop One — Kimberley, South Africa
  • Rovos Stop Two — Matjiesfontein, South Africa
  • Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia
  • At the edge of the Garden Route — Port Elizabeth, South Africa
  • On to Wine Country — Franschhoek, South Africa

Today we started the last phase of our South African adventure, flying from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth, South Africa which is located on the western portion of Algoa Bay, along the Southeastern coast of South Africa on the Indian Ocean. I should mention that everyone calls the place P.E. — if you don’t you look like a hick. For us, this marks the start of our travel along the Garden Route on the way back to Cape Town, nearly 500 miles away. While there have been settlements here for over 65,000 years, it was only in 1820 that the city was founded by Sir Rufane Donkin who named it after his wife, Elizabeth who had died in India. Like so many other locations in South Africa, this city suffered the scourges of war between the British and Dutch through the Boer Wars. The city also suffered during apartheid where mass relocations of Black and colored landowners left much of the prime real estate in White hands. Ultimately, lots of external investment started to increase the fortunes of the area. In addition, the Nelson Mandela Bay Metropolitan Municipality was formed to honor former President Nelson Mandela.  Mandela is a real hero here and we wanted to see the Donkin Reserve and Route 67, both celebrating the 67 years that Mandela dedicated to the freedom of South Africa. But that area of the Central Business District is a mixed situation. On the one hand, there has been some new development in the area as well as attempted refurbishment of Victorian icons like the King Edward Hotel, the area has really degraded and the monuments aren’t being well taken care of. In fact, I made a couple of wrong turns in our cool new Chinese rental car, and ended up in parts of the city with no working streetlights and a lot of trash around. The situation is very different where we are staying further to the west with the creation of Baywest City, complete with a mall and hotel that looks suspiciously like the Grand Floridian at Disney World. Anyway, we’re glad we stopped here, but we are anxious to get onto to the Garden Route and the nature that is resplendent there.

Flying into PE — amazing coastline on one side…
… and the city on the other.
We started out going to our hotel in the Baywest City portion of the city. It was quite upscale with a giant mall, etc. P.S. This is not our hotel. We are in a more modest one to the left…
They even have Shark Rock Pier, the only public pier in the city.
But then we drove down into the CBD to see the Donkin Preserve and Route 67 — a mix of old and new with the pyramid being dedicated to Elizabeth Donkins and the rest celebrating the contributions of Nelson Mandela. The area around and within the park was pretty run down.
Some of the sculptures here are truly amazing.
But even some of the grand old Victorian structures like the King Edward Hotel, while trying to be renovated is still the home for squatters.
It’s clear that there is a genuine love for Mandela here…
… and there is some progress in redevelopment within the CBD, …
… as well as the partial preservation of the 67 art works along the trail…
… but there is much work to be done. Meanwhile, entrepreneurism is blossoming. This guy does it all!
This entry was posted in Africa, South Africa, Travel
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Glen Bruels

I am a traveler and sometimes clay sculptor, following a long career working in consulting. My work allowed me to travel the world extensively and I was hooked. Today, I travel with my wife/best friend to explore new places, meet new people, and learn new things.

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